How To Replace a Table Saw Blade
- The Tool Pro
- Oct 18
- 5 min read
Note: Always follow your table saw manufacturer’s manual and safety instructions. The video shared demonstrates a typical procedure; adapt as needed for your specific saw model.
Safety First: Preparation
Unplug / Power Off / Lock Out
Before doing anything, make sure the saw is completely de-energized. Unplug it (or switch off the circuit breaker). If your shop has a lockout/tagout protocol, use it. The video begins by ensuring safety before proceeding.
Raise the Blade / Set to Safe Height
Rotate or lift the blade as needed so you have good access to the arbor nut and blade. (In the video, the presenter raises the blade to its maximum height for clearance.)
Remove the Throat Plate / Miter Gauge / Fence as Needed
If the throat plate or miter gauge is in the way, remove them to get better access.
Stabilize the Blade
Many table saws include a blade lock or anti-rotation pin (to prevent the blade from spinning while loosening the nut). If your saw has one, engage it. This may also be held in place with the inside flat wrench around the drive shaft to prevent spinning.
BONUS TIP - If not, you may need to use a piece of scrap wood to wedge or block the blade from turning gently (without damaging the teeth).
Step-by-Step Blade Removal & Installation
Loosen the Arbor Nut
Using the correct wrench (often a spanner or the saw’s supplied blade wrench):
Turn the nut in the direction indicated (usually counterclockwise) to loosen.
If it’s tight, you may need to apply penetrating oil or use steady force.
Hold the blade steady (via blade lock or block) while loosening.
Remove the Outer Flange / Washer
Once the nut is loose, remove any outer flange or washer that holds the blade in place.
Remove the Old Blade
Carefully slide the blade off the arbor. Be cautious—blade teeth are sharp. Place it safely aside.
Clean the Flanges / Arbor
Wipe off any dust, resin, rust, or debris from the arbor shaft and both flanges (inner & outer). Clean mating surfaces ensure proper seating and minimize vibration.
Install the New Blade
Check that the new blade has the correct bore size (arbor hole) to match your saw (e.g. 5/8”, 1”, etc.).
Place the inner flange (if separate) onto the arbor, making sure it sits flat.
Slide the new blade onto the arbor, aligning it so the teeth point in the correct direction (towards the front of the table saw for typical right-tilt machines).
Then install the outer flange / washer.
Tighten the Arbor Nut
Finger-tighten at first, ensuring the blade is seated.
Engage the blade lock (if any) or otherwise stabilize the blade.
Use the wrench to torque the nut to the manufacturer’s recommended spec (don’t over-tighten).
Lower the Blade / Reinstall Plate / Adjust Height
Lower the blade back to your working height.
Reinstall the throat plate, miter gauge, fence, or any parts you removed.
Make sure everything is locked back in place, and no tools or debris are left on the saw surface.
Test the Setup
Before making a full cut, rotate the blade by hand (if possible) to confirm nothing rubs.
Power on the saw briefly with no workpiece to check for vibration, noise, or wobble.
If all is good, gradually make a test cut with a scrap piece to verify alignment and clean cut quality.
Tips, Tricks & Common Pitfalls
Always use the right wrench for your arbor nut; forcing with the wrong size can slip or damage the nut or wrench.
Mark the “front” of your blade before removing (with a permanent marker) — helps orientation when installing/comparing the new blade.
Avoid overtightening the nut. A snug, properly torqued fit is sufficient; overdoing it can damage bearings or distort the blade.
If the blade is stuck on the arbor (due to resin buildup or corrosion), gentle taps (light hammer + wooden wedge) or penetrating oil can help. Don’t use excessive force.
Use gloves when handling blades, but be cautious: gloves can slip on tooth edges. Always grasp non-tooth parts.
Keep spare blades nearby so you can swap quickly when one gets dull, rather than forcing a dull blade.
Calibration - After changing, re-check blade alignment (parallel to fence and miter slot) — sometimes the act of loosening/reinstalling can shift things slightly.
Choosing the Best Blades for Your Table Saw
Selecting the right blade for the job can dramatically affect cut quality, speed, and safety. Below are considerations and some recommendations (these are blades you can browse or order):
What to Look For in a Good Table Saw Blade
Material & Tooth Type
Carbide-tipped teeth last much longer than steel.
Alternate Top Bevel (ATB), Triple Chip Grind (TCG), Flat Top Grind (FTG) — choose based on material (wood, plywood, laminates, plastics, non-ferrous metals).
Staggered vs continuous tooth shapes affect cut type (rip cuts vs crosscuts).
Tooth Count (TPI / Number of Teeth)
Fewer teeth (e.g. 24T, 30T) — faster cutting (especially rip cuts) but rougher finish.
More teeth (e.g. 60T, 80T, 96T) — smoother finish, better for crosscutting, plywood, laminates.
Blade Diameter & Bore
Must match your saw (common sizes: 8”, 10”, 12”).
The arbor bore (e.g. 5/8”, 1”) must match or use correct adapters.
Kerf (Blade Thickness / Cut Width)
Thin-kerf and Ultra Thin-kerf blades remove less material and require less motor power (especially on underpowered saws).
Full-kerf blades can be more stable but need more power and may stress motors.
Coatings & Treatment
Anti-stick coatings, anti-corrosion coatings, heat-resistant treatments help with longevity and performance.
Purpose-Specific Blades
General purpose / combo blades (e.g. 50/50 rip–cross)
Dedicated ripping blades (fewer teeth, more aggressive gullets)
Finishing / fine-cut blades (higher tooth counts)
Dado / joinery blades (stacked, dado sets)
Non-wood / specialty blades for laminates, plastics, non-ferrous metals.
Saw Blade Recommendations
Here are some good blades you can look into (be sure the size/parameters match your saw):
Here are some highlights of that list:
Diablo Fine Finish (10” 60‑T) — a solid mid-tooth-count finishing blade.
Diablo Ultra Finish (12” 80‑T) — for super-smooth cuts (plywood, veneers).
Freud Diablo 10” 40‑T All Purpose — a good all-around blade for both rip and crosscut.
DeWalt 10” 24‑T Ripping — optimized for fast ripping of solid stock.
Bosch 10” 40‑T All Purpose — balanced option for general work.
Avanti 10” 60‑T Fine — a value blade for finer cuts.
CMT 12” 96‑T Industrial Finish — great for larger or industrial saws needing super fine finish cuts.
You don’t need all of them, but having a couple—say one blade for ripping (e.g. 24–30T) and one for finishing/crosscut (60–80T)—gives flexibility in your woodshop.
Blade Selection Tips for Your Use Case
If your table saw is lower-powered (e.g. benchtop or jobsite saw), lean toward thin-kerf blades so you don’t tax the motor as much.
If you often crosscut plywood or laminate, a higher-tooth finishing blade pays off in cleaner cuts.
Keep one “go-to” combo blade for everyday cuts, and swap in purpose-specific blades when needed.
Let the material guide you: MDF, melamine, plywood may require special coatings or tooth geometry to reduce tear-out.
Regularly clean and sharpen (or replace) your blades. A “good blade” loses value when dull or gummed up.
Putting It All Together - How to Replace Table Saw Blade
Changing a table saw blade is a straightforward task if done carefully and methodically—safety, proper tools, and blade match are key. The video you provided walks through that process visually, and the steps above mirror that sequence: power off, raise blade, remove nut/flange, swap blades, clean, tighten, test.
Choosing the right blade for your cuts will make a big difference in cut quality, ease of cutting, and blade lifespan. With the recommendations above, you’ll be better equipped to pick blades suited to your work and your saw’s capabilities. Now you know how to replace a table saw blade!
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